14 August 2008

Chapter III: Letter 3.1

Chapter III
Getting There

The Negev, 1965


The Negev

Bound between the reaches of two mountain ranges,
     born within the heart of anger,
     left beneath the stench of sulfur dust
     precipitating slowly on the ruins of that birth,
     the Negev's first uncertain days -- when strata buckled
     between phases of a crazed and frantic ride
     and deranged chasms' crumbling sands first bore the brunt
     of the decimated yet unblunted boulders' fall --
Those first uncertain days were meant
     not as creation but as death. Destruction
     was the purpose of that force which thrust against the land,
     and surely, in the tumble and the rise,
     was too improbable to ever have been planned.

The Israelites were first to know the product of creation's wrath
     and named it as the Negev: their Desert of the South.
And terrified they fled at its birth, or tried to;
     tiny figures climbing slowly from the death below
     along precipitous and jagged salt-stone cliffs.
Though it could be owned by no one it had worth,
     and first was used by Jews for patient centuries.
And then the others came from unknown races,
     wanderers and settlers in search of any place
     that could be half a home; and they competed for it
     with the sun, aridity and rocks which
     were they soil still could not be farmed
     and only barely grazed. These others left their signature, a scratch,
     upon enduring surfaces. The Jews left nothing more.

Successive waves of conquerors were conquered,
     driven off from what they strove to own
     by newer nations or by something else,
     and not the desert, this, for rock and stone
     have many times before been domineered by man.
     That thing which drove man back cannot be known,
     is greater even than the land:
          the pattern and the interplay
          of force and need which feed the desert
          are what make the lack of life
          so plausible. The energy derived
          is much too varied to be held
          and far too great to be controlled.
          On what kills man, the desert thrives.


Assyrian, Roman, Greek, and Turk,
     the hundred other great, the thousands, lesser
     lurk briefly behind weak shadow-lines
     or tread cautious lives
     beneath the weight of too much sky
     until they're driven off by
          rushing floods of heat.
     leaving behind their signs:

          The coins, all green and
                              weathered,
                              scattered,
          lie in distances apart
          from those that can be
                              measured,
          distances of mind, not only
                              miles and time.
          The potsherds, reconstructed
                              now by man,
          lie broken with the shattered bones
          within which minor tales of minor
                              shames and battles
          lie muted beneath the Negev's
                              other claims.
          And stones which were once walls,
          spaced and salted with evaporated sweat
          of strife against a witless force
          too great to know and therefore called by man
                              in plural as 'the elements',
          lie in broken and half-broken mounds,
          reclaimed and half-reclaimed by the
                              surrounding wasted span
          of sandless half-spent half-certainty
                              of Negev's rocky grounds.
          These signs, and more, lie dormant and unseen
          along the shifting scheme of hill and plain
          that calls itself by no name that we know
          but which we call the Negev.

And of these signs that man has left behind
(and often, unplanned, stayed behind himself)
no one is mark of mandate nor of claim
to having held the will, volition -- state it as you will --
of elements or strengths or surfaces or depths,
not so much as the least stone part of that
untamed rim within his hand.
     For if the Negev can have masters they are these:
the energies and elements which, so long before --
     when Lot's vain wife first beheld the fires of destruction --
almost as an accident created from that strife
     (by destruction of the Cities of the Plain);
the desert which depends yet on these for its --
     let's not call it life, but surely it is something more
     than mere existence; instead let's call it
     continuity;
     the Great Sahara, South and to the West
     a wasteland as you'd think a desert ought to be --
     sweeps its sands across the Sinai shelf,
     and keeps the Negev separate from itself
     by northwest-running granite hills,
     a vastness which can spill those unknown forces that maintain it
     out across the breach into the Negev's lands
     in a final flickering of blurred strained strength
     beyond whose power the Sahara is spent
     so that the essence of the desert is transferred
     but character is lost and no imprint is lent,
     no genetic pattern is impressed. The Negev stands
     dependent but irrevocably alone.

The granite hills define its western reach.
The northern Negev has no border.
     Here the combinations, tempers, of the air,
     undefined, disordered, wavering as mist before a wind,
     hold back expansion, but two things there are
     that can draw a line through and then say:
     'the desert ends right here'. Though really,
     though the Negev's not the world its end
     is as uncertain as a fading whimper.
We draw our line across a hundred miles
     (we must lest we allow a nether land
     which, as we cross it, might extend
     its lack of certainty, exactness, onto us
     so that we find ourselves as vague
     and ill-defined, abstract).

We gaze then on the surface of the world's deepest rift,
where oily waters, salted far beyond
the limits any life can tolerate
keep chained in secret far below its shores
those still lost Cities of a near-forgotten,
buried, once sweet fruitful Plain.
The Dead Sea still seeps sulfur fumes
where Sodom once reigned royal and Gomorrah
grazed her herds of sheep and goats.
Now drifting muted waters sweep those shores
where some drear and gnarled trees before
the mountains loom like moonscape, leaping
from the bottom of that stained defeated stand of strife,
of raped and dread depleted land.

Midway between the Dead Sea and the Mediterranean
appears the one tired mark where man's slight spark of fire
has endured within hostile terrain. Beer Sheva bears the signature
not merely of an Arab settlement, lost beside some wells,
which grew too quickly after far too many mired years
of service to the struggling camel trains
that single-file, slowly, cross the southern hills.

It grew too tame too fast when Israel's men
reclaimed the desert they'd deserted at its birth
and massed new matter to the flawed and crumbling edge
of Arab's baked adobe, Bedouin tent, and raw unshaded sun
until one has almost to sift beneath the new facade
of frontier toughness and technology,
the khaki-clad and weaponed pioneer,
whose strides are swift and forward,
to find the dark-eyed boy, the deep-eyed one,
                              suspicious and bewildered,
kaffiyeh headdress hiding cunning of a kind
                              we cannot know,
robes to ankle-length disguising
the curved glint of a silver-sheathed blade;
the deep-eyed youth of a culture aged too quickly
                              with no place left to go.

Beer Sheva bears the marks not just of man's,
but of the desert's sons.
Too far beneath the northern rich green fields
the Negev's dust stalks the streets and wields
the power ancient prophets sought to yield
from wilderness: the roll of distant drums
beaten by a drummer yet unknown.

And as escaping heat waves speed in from the distant Sinai hills
and spill their strife across the torn and sunken Negev floor,
they lap against the Jordan mountains which retain
and hold that quintessence on which the Negev feeds.
The Jordan mountains grant the desert life
and something more: a mold, a shape, by which to be
contained. Structured. Defined. Entrapped and real.

And to the South the desert narrows
like some insane inverted pyramid,
a shell that pours its vital marrows
splashing, spent, into the unplumbed slash
of depths that are the Red Sea's floor.

And where, at the tidal line, the Negev's plain is buried
and confined, the Red Sea carries on the chore
of being that which drums apart the Jordan height
from the Sinai hills, separating them
with timeless unrepentant unforgiving might.

If the Negev can have masters they are these
the elements that gave it birth, the energy
and interplay that give it continuity,
the deserts, mountains, that surround it,
                              and the seas.

13 August 2008

END



End of Chapter II


Digging In, Digging Out






Letter 2.65

Perhaps you should read this letter sitting down. To begin with -- an event that should make you happy -- I've disrobed. Yesterday I went out to Ananda Kuti, the local Theravada Buddhist temple, and announced my intention. 'That's perfectly alright,' Ven. Amritananda, the chief monk of the temple, told me. 'There's no obligation for anyone to be a monk longer than he wants. ' He's a very fine person who made the whole business very simple, amiable, and light, when with others it could have been much more difficult, and I'm quite grateful to him. So, it took only a few minutes to change into some clothes I'd borrowed -- I'm having some things made for me, Nepali trousers and a Tibetan shirt -- and I walked out a layman again.

It's ironical, I guess, that this should happen in the same place where, almost 6 years ago, I more or less decided on ordination: Nepal is a strange and magical place for me, and -- although I dislike mystical explanations -- I'd be unwilling to say that the valleys and snow-covered mountains played no part in the decision to disrobe. Certainly, though, other factors are also involved. Perhaps it wouldn't be possible to explain them all (perhaps I don't even know them all), and, perhaps, too, you are satisfied simply to know that what you've wanted has happened, without caring about why, but still something might be said.

After having written that last sentence I thought for some minutes about what might, in fact, he said. How can I summarize these years of inner development? So much has happened that even a bare outline would be a major effort; yet an outline, bereft of the significance of detail, would be meaningless. Perhaps, though, the central themes would revolve around the ideas of understanding my own capacities and limitations, and of finding that things must be done in the proper order: I didn't know, when I was ordained, that one must be a good layman before one can be a good monk, and that some qualities are better cultivated in the city and not the forest.

Naturally, there have been some immediate influences which helped bring me to a position where I could accept these things -- influences, that is, other than the eternal Himalayan snows. (One day a bunch of friends climbed into a landrover -- incredible vehicle! -- and we went up to a hill near the Tibetan border, camped overnight, and watches the sunrise over the mountains. Everest, far to the East, was a very minor peak on the horizon. Annapurna was brilliant. There was a frisbee; a campfire; a guitar. Very windy and cold. Very beautiful! But how to enumerate then, weigh them, or evaluate them? of what value to do so? But even without explanations, I know you will be happy to know I've disrobed, and that the years as a monk have been valuable, useful, and peaceful: they were not wasted.

I've been in the hospital. The trouble itself turned out to be not very Serious -- an infection; but because it was located in the urinary tract it was very painful, and I had to be taken to the hospital and was kept doped up for a day and a half. Also at first it was thought to be appendicitis (the pain was general rather than localized) and I was prepared for surgery before the doctors found out what was wrong. However, I've now been released and need only some mild antibiotic (ampicillin) for a few days, The hospital was very good -- a Western missionary affair with British and Canadian doctors -- but also expensive: the bill was over $30. (My sense of the expensive is no doubt in for a shock.)

I am accepting your offer of a ticket to the States. I have some ideas of what I might do there -- especially what I might not do there -- but right now these are just ideas, not plans.

I would, presently, even like to avoid the preconceptions which are the prerequisite of pre-plans.

By the way, the rhinoceros (which is on the Indian aerogramme) is found in some of the valleys of Nepal. I don't know if they're found in the Indian Himalayas, but they're certainly not exclusively African, any more than the lion, elephant, camel, or ibix.

I feel rather like one roaming back to America.

12 August 2008

Letter 2.64

While the usefulness of the sessions was limited -- the limitations of a large group of uneven and different practice (the teacher knew what he was doing, but it was not what I was doing) -- at the very least I got in some days of intensive meditation, which did me good; practice tends to degenerate under the travelling conditions of the last two months.

After the sessions, I took a four hour bus trip north to Rajgir, ancient Rajagaha -- south of Patna (you won't find any of the Buddhist pilgrimage places on any map but a historical map): here is found the cave where the First Council met a few months after the Buddha's death to decide what to do with the Teaching; also are found many places where the Buddha lived, and they all have stories behind them, told in the Suttas. Rajagaha was the ancient capital of the Kosala Kingdom, and is surrounded by hills which provide a natural fortification, atop which huge walls, about 40 miles in length still stand today in partial ruins. There are many tales of the kingdom to be gleaned by scattered references in the Suttas. As there were 2500 years ago, there are natural hot springs, and public bathing tanks have been built. I found one item not mentioned in the tourist guide books: while searching for a particular place I made some wrong turn and got into some heavy bush atop a hill. As the cowtrack began petering out I stopped to look around and thought of turning back, when I smelt a penetrating, rather noxious odor, which was vaguely reminiscent of something. I looked around for the source and saw nothing, and then looked down -- almost at my feet was a rotting human corpse. Actually, to be accurate, it was only the top third of a corpse, from the chest up, without arms. It was probably one to two months old -- half the flesh on the skull still remained; but I'll spare you the details. I went back to an old Jain temple where some Indians were sitting and told them of what I'd found. They were curious to see it, so I took them back to it. They examined the corpse, and I was eventually able to learn that they knew who it was, and who had murdered him, but they had no intention of doing anything about it. As a matter of fact, neither did I, and for all I know it's still there. It's the first time I've seen a really ripe body -- seen? I nearly stepped on him. Although the Buddha suggested the contemplation of such things as a little exercise in reality -- the glorious future of every one of us -- it certainly put me off my lunch.

From Rajgir it's only a few miles to Nalanda, the site of one of the greatest ancient universities, where 10,000 students attended classes at its peak -- it was about 700 years old when it was destroyed in the Moghul invasion of the 13th century. A new university has been established close by the ruins, primarily devoted to 'Buddhist studies', and I stayed there with a Laotian monk I'd met in Bodh Gaya. In a spell of very wet weather, I trekked up to Vaisali, headquarters of the ancient Vajjian Kingdom: little had been done in the way of excavation there, although there are two stupas where small quantities of ash from the cremated body of the Buddha were unearthed, as well as one of Asoka's pillars unfortunately defaced at the base by tourists who had chiselled their names into the stone ('E.F. Simons, 1831, 'J.S. Stevenson 1790', etc.)

Kusinagar, where the cremation actually occurred, was next, a pleasant enough place, but aside from the death and cremation of the Buddha not much happened there, so a day of radiant sunshine later I went on to Savatthi, where the Buddha spent 25 years, and saw extensive ruins -- a large city existed there at one time, perhaps even bigger than Rajagaha -- amidst sparse jungle. By this time my capacity to absorb was getting pretty clogged, and I realized I wouldn't he able to get much out of Savatthi beyond surface impressions: too much happened there. So, after a couple days of wandering around, I called it quits, and went on to Lumbini, just across the Nepal border, where the Buddha was born. The site is marked by an old Asokan pillar, now cracked up the stem and with its capital in fragments. But a beautiful temple was there -- looked after by a fine old Nepalese monk -- full of ornately-carved woodwork of traditional Nepalese handicraft, Tibetan-style wall paintings, and many other fine touches. From Lumbini I had to re-enter India to get to Katmandu, there being no Nepal road, and it took an exhausting three days on narrow-guage trains and a rattletrap truck to reach Katmandu.

When the truck conked out at a pass of about 8200 feet (Katmandu's in a valley; only about 4500 feet) I got out and had the pleasure of making a snowball. I felt it was the least I could do, and -- since I did no more -- apparently the most I could do too…